Some fender examples...

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2 stringers, with a double herringbone in brown. These require a lot of extra time to get the herringbone pattern to fit.

 

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Center stringer with a brown herringbone. This is the easiest version of herringbone to make, but still takes time to cut and fit the inlay.

 

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Center stringer with a natural herringbone

 

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2 stringers, with a straight green grain. The straight grain inlays are the easiest pattern to make, but doesn't look as good as the herringbone patterns.

 

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Center stringer with a blue herringbone

 

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Center stringer with a black herringbone

 

The complete hardware installation kit. The wrap-around struts are 5mm aluminum and are attached to the fenders using daruma bolts. The struts will have to be cut to the appropriate length.

 

Daruma bolts are also used to attach the struts to the triangular shaped frame bracket at the rear dropout. You can see that the length of the struts is important, as a strut that is too long will conflict with this assembly, while a strut that is too short may not work. Fit checking is very important, although it can be tedious to check, trim, recheck and retrim.

 

Some installations will require a bit of ingenuity to get everything to fit. Adding fenders to a frame that already has a rear rack can be especially challenging. This installation on a frame with the Rohloff dropouts and a rack demonstrates some of the potential conflicts.

 

The bridge bracket attaches the rear fender to the rear brake bridge and similarly connects the front fender to the fork crown. Both the brake bridge and the fork crown on your frame must have a hole. This is where some fit checking should be done before drilling. This bracket provides a long slot so that the position of the bracket can be adjusted, but the holes you drill will have to be within the adjustment range. This particular installation has the two holes at the extreme ends of the slot, and doesn't allow for any adjustment.

 

The bridge bracket also has a slot that allows for vertical clearance adjustment, and there must be adequate clearance for the nuts between the tire and the fender. This is especially important at the brake bridge and fork crown, as this is where there will be limited spacing and limited clearance adjustment. Beach cruiser type bicycles with balloon tires may present clearance issues and this installation has the button head bolts reversed because there was barely enough clearance for the nuts.

 

This shows the underside of the daruma fender mounting bolt. Again, some drilling will be required, but the position of these holes is much easier to determine.

 

The front struts are attached to the dropout using 5mm R-clips. You can see that the length of the strut is important, as it can conflict with the quick-release.

 

The fenders are somewhat flexible, and may vibrate, depending on the installation. This set-up shows a front fender mounted with 2 sets of struts, providing a more rigid assembly.

 

And the struts must be trimmed to avoid conflicting with other mounting hardware.